Thekua, the Chhath prasad made with atta and gur

The wheat-and-jaggery biscuit that Chhath is built around. A stiff dough, a low flame and enough patience to fry them properly.

Chhath Puja · Prep 20 min · Cook 25 min · Total 55 min · Makes About 18 to 20 thekua · Bihari snack

Thekua is the reason a Bihari kitchen smells of ghee and gur for three days every November. It is prasad for Chhath, offered at the ghat and then carried home in a cloth bag, and it is also the sturdiest sweet in the Indian repertoire: no milk, no khoya, nothing that spoils.

There are only three things in it that matter. Atta, jaggery and ghee. Everything else, the saunf, the coconut, the elaichi, is a family preference, and every family will tell you theirs is the correct one.

What makes or breaks it

A stiff dough and a low flame. Thekua dough is not roti dough; it should crumble when you press it and only just hold together when you shape it. And the fat must stay gentle, because jaggery browns fast and a hot kadhai gives you a thekua that is dark outside and raw in the middle.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt the jaggery Warm the water in a small pan, take it off the heat and stir in the jaggery powder until it dissolves. Leave it to cool to room temperature. Hot syrup poured into atta cooks the flour and gives a hard thekua, so do not rush this.
  2. Rub in the ghee Put the atta in a wide bowl, add the 4 tbsp of ghee and rub it through with your fingers for a couple of minutes. When a fistful holds its shape and then crumbles cleanly, the moyan is right.
  3. Add the flavourings Mix in the crushed saunf, the cardamom powder and the grated coconut if you are using it.
  4. Bring the dough together Pour the cooled jaggery water in a little at a time and gather the dough with your hand. Stop as soon as it comes together. It should be stiff and slightly crumbly, nothing like a soft roti dough. Do not knead it.
  5. Rest it Cover and leave the dough for 10 minutes so the atta takes up the liquid evenly.
  6. Shape them Take a lemon-sized piece, roll it smooth, flatten it into a thick oval about half a centimetre deep, then press it onto a thekua mould or mark it with the back of a fork. Keep them on a plate in a single layer.
  7. Fry on a low flame Heat the ghee in a kadhai on low. Drop in a pinch of dough: it should rise slowly, not sizzle hard. Slide in four or five thekua at a time and fry for 6 to 8 minutes, turning once, until they are a deep reddish brown all over.
  8. Drain and cool Lift them onto a rack or a plate lined with paper. They are soft when they come out and firm up as they cool, so leave them completely cold before you judge the texture, and completely cold before you store them.

With our jaggery

Our jaggery powder dissolves into the warm water in under a minute and leaves no grit in the dough, which is the whole reason to use powder here. If you are using our cubes, break them with the back of a spoon first and give them two or three minutes in the warm water. Because the jaggery is unrefined and unbleached, one batch of thekua may come out a shade darker than the last. That is the cane, not the frying.

Tips from our kitchen

The jaggery this recipe is made with

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